Nuno Mendes
Art all the way
By Laurent Feneau
He masters his culinary techniques with such skill that it could be assimilated to plastic arts, so the curious cuisine of Nuno Mendes happily sails on the clear water of the Thames, revealing innovative cooking with merit. Immediate boarding!
He has settled down, woven his future, and sewed his way to renown across the
Channel. No, we're not talking about the latest trendy clothes designer of the
British Royal Family, but
Nuno Mendes.
On the other side of the Channel, skilfully surveying accurate cooking times,
special touches usually forbidden on textures, and a technique which is both
adept and rare in Her Majesty's realm, Nuno Mendes, a native of Portugal, has
already conquered and converted the London youth. "I started my cooking
career in the United States and after two years of studying, I ended up at the
Marine Biology School in Miami! That's where I decided that cooking was my future.
I worked a lot and learned as much as I could, and finally returned to Europe.
I continued improving my techniques in London and finally managed to open my
own restaurant."
Food & Fado
Having landed in the British capital by chance, Nuno started cooking a million
light years from English cooking and the new trend leaders. "My cooking
is profoundly influenced by my travels and culinary experiences which I had
in these countries. I usually use a mixture of Iberian or Asian ingredients
and techniques. I cook more in a contemporary way, meaning "light",
without fat or superfluous oils - in other words, I like to be open to new flavours
and textures."
Alimentary, my dear Watson...
It becomes obvious that if Mister Mendes travelled around so much, it was to
put aside various influences. "I don't believe I belong to any particular
cooking movement, even if I am very inspired by numerous chefs worldwide. Above
all, my cuisine is a reflection of my experiences and my personality. It's technical,
but also very artistic." Indeed, what makes this chef stand out is the
plastic art aspect of his culinary delights.
After his creative and nocturnal mind-shifting, he awakes each morning with
new, perceptible, and structured inventions. Unexpected - basil-oil bath lather
cocktail! - definitely odd sometimes - cep mushrooms with pine nuts and bacon
in a yogurt chantilly - each time, these artistically culinary pursuits are
carried out, they result in, a clear, distinct, and refined style. A good example
is this trilogy of lobster, pigs feet, and black radish
three perfectly
identifiable elements whose association opens up to a new world.
Culinary breakdowns
Where does this artistic side of his work stem from? "I guess it's like
a very personal way of expressing myself
it just comes naturally,"
Nuno answers modestly, although he is currently closing his first restaurant
and opening his next in Shanghai, and taking advantage of this "break"
to multiply his artistic collaborations with designers, graphic's, and other
plastic artists. "It's a great way of making your job more interesting.
We're trying to find a common platform as a starting point, to then carry on
in our respective jobs. When we've finished, we'll take a break to analyze our
parallel developments which could just as well be congruous, as in contrast.
The results could have very different forms, but always come from the heart."
There is also much humour with the remaking of old classics like technicalized
and artistically sublimated eggs and bacon. Spherized egg white and hidden yolk
Innovation always aims towards a balance point, a new and refined line
so British. "From the ongoing confrontation of cooking with artistic
works of art or conditions, we end up creating emotions
"
Beyond all borders
"Collaborating with these artists gives me the chance to learn more regarding
behaviours and different sorts of guest reactions. It allows me to pinpoint
the various stimuli, which I then use during a meal, according to the situation,
in order to personalize my cuisine with an even larger emotional force."
Nuno's cooking is the kind which opens new horizons. Horizons and perspectives
is something this globetrotter certainly doesn't lack. There is the Asian slant
with, as stated early on, an opening in Shanghai this year. There is the British
slant, as always, with a new London restaurant opening in 2010. "In Shanghai
it will be a Ceviche and Tapas bar in a very contemporary setting. In London
it'll be a small restaurant with an open kitchen, hopefully giving the guest
an overall positive and personalized experience."
The best is yet to come. Beautifully presented, delicious, and heartfelt
always cooked on low heat. God save Nuno!
THE LOFT
Kingsland Road
East London
www.nunomendes.co.uk