Flora Mikula
Travelling toque
By Laurent Feneau
Trained in the kitchens of the entire world, between two gourmet trips, day by day Flora Mikula invents a nomadic cuisine ; perpetual motion at the stove.
She's run the obstacle course. She's also stayed calm when told on the telephone
that it is useless to want to talk to the chef because "we don't take on
women here". Luckily Flora Mikula is a soldier's daughter. Hence a steel
character that enabled her to wait and gain the esteem of her colleagues and
even the friendship of some. One should mention that the cuisine of the great
traveler of Polish extraction is unique in the way she takes the gourmet by
the hand on a journey to the four corners of the earth right at the table. "Voyages
are the foundation of my cooking; my father's profession gave me the possibility
of moving early not to mention the holidays we systematically spent touring
Europe".
A traveling childhood, studies and once again Flora is on the road, a road that
leads to London where she discovers a surprising gastronomic diversity, in particular
in the kitchens of the Meridien where she works under Jean-Michel Lorain. There
she undertakes a host of activities that leave their mark forever and give her
a taste for opening up to other culinary cultures to appropriate them and especially
combine them. An incredible capacity for creating improbable encounters that
will be furthered in the United States for two years working with great French
chefs. "Fifteen years ago, the trend across the Atlantic was fusion, a
culinary mode called "Pacific dream" that astutely combined Japanese,
Mexican and American gastronomy", remembers the chef.
Come-back !
But in 1996, Flora felt the need to return to France. Her aim: "finalize
my training in a great restaurant". "Alain Passard opened his door.
He was interested in my profile and my experience quickly enabled me to become
sous-chef. An important step in my career for Alain helped me come back to basics
in cooking", she explains. It is also at l'Arpège that she met Raphaël,
her husband with whom she opened "Les Olivades", her first restaurant
dedicated to Provencal cooking. Although born in Nîmes, Flora finds herself
quickly limited in this culinary register. So she changes heading but also banks.
Her nomadic cooking crosses the Seine reaching avenue Georges V, opposite the
Prince de Galles hotel; a "golden triangle" - between the Champs-Elysées,
avenue Montaigne and avenue Kléber - whose color suits this wheat-blond
chef.
The intimate atmosphere created in this delicious little boudoir of a restaurant
called "Les Saveurs de Flora" is in perfect agreement with the playful
creations of former-Miss Mediterranean cuisine. Smiling and relaxed at her oven,
Flora leads her brigade of young chefs that she trained to "her style".
She deploys a menu with a remainder of Provencal accents but that features something
from the world over. For the "Amazon", as she is called by her colleague
David Zuddas, has never given up her vagabond cooking. Back a few days ago from
Japan, the chef hurries to add the final touch to her latest creation: Japanese-style
sardines in a soy and sake sauce.
Synthesis in the kitchen
A touch of spice here, a few herbs there, a sweet and savory balance and to
finish an unusual texture combined by Flora to create a synthesis of contemporary
cooking from around the globe. But while her creativity may borrow from the
five continents, the heart that beats beneath the chef's toque remains Mediterranean
"My roots stay effectively in the south, in particular Spain and Italy.
For in the end, there's nothing better that a great pasta dish is there? It's
also interesting to note that each country, or nearly, has its pasta specialty,
even Poland" she says ironically.
But don't fall into the trap! If Flora turns to tradition and the great classics
of world cuisine, it is to better move forward. It is in this direction that
she works on a daily basis with the Generation C collective. "With chefs
like Thierry Marx, Alexandre Gauthier, William Ledeuil or Cédric and
Catherine Denaux, we are trying to take cooking forward and instill some newness
into it. This involves the restaurants of course, but also the schools where
we do everything we can to share our passion for our profession". In short,
with her travels and temperament, Flora Mikula is at ease everywhere; in the
kitchen, in the dining room, but also in the field as a militant defending and
moving her profession forward. Cooking takes 150% of her time! "When I'm
not cooking, I eat, it's a true hobby", she states laughing. As for projects,
with Raphaël, she is working on a specific lunch concept. "The goal
is first and foremost to evolve, but also to think about convenience cuisine".
To be continued
.
Chinese portrait
"If you were..."
..a dish
A cheese plate rather than a dish
...a product
I love vegetables, especially asparagus
...a spice
Coriander
...a wine
Champagne
...a customer
A particularly demanding regular
| Tandoori suckling pig |
LES SAVEURS DE FLORA
36 av George V
75008 Paris
www.lessaveursdeflora.com